Then they would pay their respects at the Chörten, a pyramidal Tibetan shrine where Reinhold placed his brother's ashes. No, 46 kilometers. (Messner denies this charge, saying, "Nobody would leave his brother or anybody dying, but in the case of no possibility, you are not going to sit beside a dead man and die yourself. Johann was born on May 17 1880, in … So how can he be sure about anything that transpired up there after all these years? "There is still no final answer from the court in Hamburg," he told me, referring to von Kienlin's appeal of the 2003 ruling which required him to delete the special page and other contested passages from his book. Everyone wants to take him down because he is so astonishingly arrogant.". By the time they reconnected, all three children were in their 30s. By now Reinhold was hallucinating: he imagined a third climber walking next to him and felt separated from his body, as if he were looking down on himself from above. "German mountaineering is fraught with tensions," Douglas added. I did a lot of climbing in my teens—enough that I became the youngest person to make several ascents in the Alps. They are Between Light and Shadow: The Messner Tragedy on Nanga Parbat, by Hans Saler, and The Traverse: Günther Messner's Death on Nanga Parbat—Expedition Members Break Their Silence, by Max von Kienlin, neither of which has appeared in English. Just the boot and a sentence by Ernst Jünger: 'In history the truth always wins.'". That left only the Diamir Face." He met his wife, Annemarie, in a café in Baden-Baden; she had waited on him then and had since taken to the role of the modest, adoring wife of a nobleman. But it meant that he had to have absolute confidence in himself. The tiara of spires at the head of the valley was breathtaking and intimidating. Alex Shoumatoff was a fanatical rock climber in his youth, having scaled mountains in the Swiss Alps and Grand Teton by the age of 16. Herrligkoffer had given each of his climbers an orange hardbound journal to write in, but von Kienlin claimed that he had stopped writing in his early on in the expedition because Messner told him that he would eventually have to turn it over to the Field Marshal. Memories become fixed along certain lines. Nanga is in the Himalayas, in Pakistan, near the Kashmir border. He wore his shirt open, with a clutch of Tibetan good-luck beads at his throat. He expected unquestioning obedience from his climbers and had a Wagnerian obsession with conquering Nanga Parbat, "with its bright golden adventures, its manly struggles and austere mortal dangers," as Merkl wrote. Messner took the bone home and kept it in his castle and didn't think much about it until the fall of 2003, when he went back to Ser, and the villagers showed him photographs of the Pakistani climber's body, which they had since found there with both femurs intact. von Kienlin answered. I'm not going to let my brother take all the glory this time," says Demeter, "it was a spontaneous reaction but a beautiful one. They are both free spirits. It was a commanding performance. Except that Messner probably wouldn't have waved them on and shouted, "Alles in Ordnung," if Günther had been on the Rupal Face; he would have made sure Kuen and Scholz knew that his brother was above them. This happens in the "death zone," above around 23,000 feet. Juli 1985, verlor sie einen weiteren Sohn: Siegfried Messner wurde in den italienischen Dolomiten im Seil hängend vom Blitz gestreift. So Kuen and Scholz continued to the summit, reaching it at four p.m. Kuen later wrote that the brothers, with their "little prank" of going down the Diamir side, had "alienated themselves from our company" and "perplexed the leadership.". The next day, he continued the same way for another six hours. Von Kienlin's book takes its life from this diary, and especially from the special page, which he would be forced to submit to the court in 2005, as part of an appeal. The two brothers had crossed Greenland together the long way, from north to south, and now the five of them were trying a new line up the Diamir Face, but they bailed out high up on it because of the avalanche danger and spent several days looking for traces of Günther further down. Once, Reinhold found Günther cowering in the dog kennel, unable to get up because he had been whipped so badly. Since doing Everest without supplementary oxygen, he has not had to worry about money. Now a radiant blonde in her 40s, Annemarie brought us some tea and crumpets, and we got down to business. It was the holy grail of German mountaineering. Von Kienlin and Messner have a tumultuous history. Four days later, Reinhold appeared on the other side of the mountain, at the foot of the western, Diamir Face, which is encrusted with hanging glaciers and seracs (precariously poised blocks of ice) that are forever breaking off and causing avalanches. This was the fifth. "I'd learned that life can be borne alone," he wrote. I asked Doug Scott, who climbed Mount Everest in 1975 and has known Messner for 30 years, what he made of this latest controversy, and Scott said, "If Reinhold says that is what happened, I see no reason for not taking him at his word. He set out before dawn and by the end of the morning had climbed the Merkl Couloir, a nearly vertical slit of snow and ice above Camp Five, and started on a long traverse off to the right, skirting the lower, south summit. Among the excised material was the "special page," as Messner called it, an addition to von Kienlin's diary detailing Messner's supposed confession that he left his brother on the summit. In 2002 he revisited the subject in his book The Naked Mountain. Or maybe it was that of a Pakistani climber who was lost at the bottom of the Diamir Face in the 80s. It is not hard to understand why Messner fell for her, and she for him. A year after they had returned from Nanga, von Kienlin's wife, Uschi Demeter, ran off with Reinhold, who had spent months recuperating from the expedition at their home. He has a castle, a vineyard, and several small farms in South Tyrol. "I wrote the book for the sake of my living comrades and the children and grandchildren of my dead comrades," von Kienlin told me. Messner showed me pictures of the Günther Messner Mountain School he had built in the village of Ser, which sits at 10,000 feet, at the foot of the Diamir Face. According to Messner, Gerhard Baur and another surviving member of the expedition, Jürgen Winkler, who had come to the book party, jumped to their feet and said, "This is an outrage." So I found it surprising that the diary pages wouldn't be close at hand, especially when they were the only substantiation for his claims about what he had been told by Messner. Messner has written and spoken about what happened on Nanga Parbat in 1970 again and again (sometimes contradicting himself in minor details). Some of the best climbers in the world stopped their ascents and watched through binoculars, aghast, as Messner hacked his way up Les Droites, then regarded as the most difficult ice wall on earth, in only four hours. Everyone likes to bash the icon, so I would take all this with a pinch of salt.". 2 nach dem Ausscheiden von Hans Rubner am 27. Reinhold spent a night and a day looking frantically for his brother, in case Günther had survived. The porters saw in what I did a necessary engagement and an element of caring.". But he must have been a lovely man and merits a better reputation.". He happened to have been born on the very day in 1934 that Willy Merkl met with catastrophe, so he had always had a fascination with Nanga Parbat. There is no room for them.". We spent three hours going over every word and discussing each point. Werner Herzog, another German obsessive, made a stark film called Scream of Stone, about a fictional triangle based on Demeter and two climbers, one or both of whom could be Messner. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. his father asked. The bad boy was going to be punished for breaking the rules and being a bad comrade. Van Kienlin claimed this had nothing to do with it; the marriage was already over. His personal philosophy is not unlike Nietzsche's idea of the Übermensch—the "self-overcoming" person who approaches life on his own terms—which the Nazis appropriated and spun to their own Aryan-supremacist ends. It was Günther, who was supposed to be stringing fixed ropes in the couloir to ease Reinhold's descent. 1994 rückte er für Siegfried Brugger, der für das italienische Abgeordnetenhaus kandidierte, in den Landtag und Regionalrat nach, denen er bis 2003 angehörte. He got up and started pacing and declaiming and expostulating, and kept it up for eight hours without a break. "But this is not a world-political question. The leader of the 1934 expedition was a man named Willy Merkl. When I visited, his flat was cozily cluttered with antiques and old paintings, including a few minor Old Masters; most of them were from the Schloss. In 1985, Messner topped out on Annapurna. (His term ended in 2004.) After that, von Kienlin said, "I wrote on loose sheets, even napkins." Von Kienlin had never met anyone like Messner, and he became absorbed in his new friend's triumph and tragedy. "He had to get lower," Messner went on. And she started to cry herself, just thinking about it. After the disaster and their shocked reunion, Messner told him, according to the diary, "I knew how much Günther wanted to get to the warmth of the tent, but I had to think that the opportunity to make this traverse would not come again." When, midway up the face, they got word that the Field Marshal was thinking of aborting the assault because he was having doubts about its success, they told Gerhard Baur and von Kienlin that they would stay and do it themselves—and maybe even go down the Diamir Face. It was like a Merchant Ivory set, and Max himself was not of this century. I had brought my copy of his book, and he explained that the "Traverse" of the title had a second, moral implication: the "transgression," like Julius Caesar crossing the Rubicon and setting off the bloody civil war that established the Roman Empire. He didn't trust his footing. Demeter went on to marry a textile designer named Peter Seipelt, and they were helping Reinhold put together his mountain museum. Suddenly, he noticed another climber below him, coming up fast. "Sabine has been the most important woman in my life," he told me. Part of the conflict was a culture clash: South Tyroleans aren't as regimented as Germans from the fatherland. Ed in questa fase si è verificato il dramma. Von 1990 bis 1994 war Messner Präsident der Bezirksgemeinschaft Eisacktal. How, I asked, had he reconstructed the polished, lengthy diary included in the book from notes on scraps of paper? In the expedition's aftermath, when Herrligkoffer started to attack Messner, von Kienlin was Messner's biggest defender. Messner was able to move so quickly because he climbed alone, alpine-style—meaning he took only a rucksack. "I did not say 'if Günther's body is found on the Diamir side' but 'where Reinhold said it was,'" he told me, adding that he is about to come out with another book, advancing his new theory—that Günther had been abandoned at the top of the Diamir Face. He was a few inches shorter and hadn't been able to put in the same hours of practice and training because of his job as a bank clerk. In the middle of it, Messner got up and said, "That's not true." [A descent down the Diamir Face would eventually lead to Rawalpindi, the city they'd flown into.] Reinhold went back to the place, a kilometer back, where he had left Günther and found it smothered by a roiling mass of fresh snow—the aftermath of an avalanche. He was his factotum, his grunt, and he already owed Reinhold for even being on the expedition. By 1986 he would complete climbs of the 14 highest mountains in the world—all the "eight-thousanders," 8,000 meters (26,240 feet) or more. When he read in the paper that Herrligkoffer was leading an expedition up the Rupal Face, he arranged to come along as a paying guest. Günther had started hallucinating during the night, fighting with Messner for a nonexistent blanket as they huddled together on the Merkl Gap, and was barely able to walk. It took Messner a year to recover his equilibrium, which he did in the most dramatic fashion—by climbing Everest maskless with Peter Habeler. But his strongest climber, Hermann Buhl, was a soloist and soon found himself at odds with the cold, aloof expedition leader. "Finally, very late at night, he fell into our tent and he couldn't eat and he just cried and cried for hours, and that's the reason why I do know he's not a liar. This August, I spoke to Messner again and asked him about the status of his lawsuit. But the southern, Rupal Face was still unclimbed. But in the summer of 2003 two members of the 1970 expedition came out with books attacking Reinhold's version of events and accusing him of choosing ambition over saving his brother's life. Reinhold, who was teaching high-school math and making a desultory effort to get a degree in building engineering at the University of Padua, had his summers free. Von Kienlin also claimed that Reinhold had expressed his desire to make the traverse days before he went to the summit. Von Kienlin invited the other climbers to his Schloss and got them to sign a letter of support for Messner. Reinhold Messner secured his status as the most phenomenal mountaineer of all time in 1978, when he and his Tyrolean countryman Peter Habeler became the first climbers ever to reach the top of Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen. Will be used in accordance with our Privacy Policy. "If I had planned to go down the Diamir Face," Messner told me, ticking off the reasons for the umpteenth time, "I would have brought along my passport and some money and a map of the face. When he came down from the Diamir Face he was completely strung out. They were in big trouble. How could I forget?" Now in his early 60s, Messner has a thick, wavy head of hair that is starting to turn gray. When the returning expedition met Messner by accident five days later, "they were all of course happy to find me still alive," he told me, "but Kuen was happy and he was also unhappy. In 2000, Messner took his brother Hubert, a doctor, to Nanga with an alpine guide named Hanspeter Eisendle and two other climbers. One of the entries recorded that Reinhold, when he finally met up with the rest of the expedition, had frantically shouted to von Kienlin, "Where's Günther?" "Reinhold went up on the glaciers, and he did not come back and he did not come back and there were avalanches coming all day long," Demeter told me. ("I started the whole Into Thin Air thing—nothing I'm proud of," he told me, referring to Jon Krakauer's best-seller about a disastrous guided climb of Everest.) It was his father who pushed Reinhold to get Günther invited on the Nanga Parbat expedition. Von Kienlin's publisher was ordered to remove from the second edition of his book 13 of 21 passages to which Messner had objected, including his alleged remark about not wanting to miss "the opportunity to make this traverse.". The special page had been reproduced on the back endpapers of the first edition of the book but was gone from the second. He died in 1985, the same year his son Siegfried was killed by lightning on a climb in the Dolomites. Instinct forces you down. After Demeter and Messner got married, she suffered terribly from being separated from her kids, and Messner was gone a lot of the time, climbing in New Guinea, guiding some rich Italians up a 24,000-foot peak in Nepal. The freshest-and most essential-updates from Washington, Wall Street, and Silicon Valley. This was proof, von Kienlin argued, that the two brothers did not go down the Diamir Face together. Februar 1988 durch Toni Kiem ersetzt Von Kienlin stood up beside him and said, "Here is someone who really knows what happened—Reinhold Messner." Ora è in condizioni disperate e la gente dell' Alto Adige ha modo di parlare ancora una volta del destino che perseguita i fratelli Messner. My own Keller is too stuffed with carpets and paintings. In German libel law, if you state something as fact that negatively impacts someone, you have to prove that it is true. It is about the death of a young man, friend, and comrade." Siegfried Johann Messner was born on month day 1906, at birth place, to Johann Messner and Theresia Messner (born Schweizer). Saler was unable to substantiate his allegations, and his publisher withdrew his book. He had all the documents from the lawsuit, for instance, chronologically filed in a thick binder. According to von Kienlin and other expedition members, Günther always carried a heavier load than Reinhold and set up their tent and cooked for him. In August 2005, Messner returned to the Diamir Face after climbers found the rest of his brother's body, minus the femur and the head, which he told me in December 2005 "probably washed away in the water. The chance came late that year, when a climber dropped out of a German expedition that was going to Nanga Parbat, the world's ninth-highest mountain (26,658 feet), and Messner was invited to take his place. He sees a porter eating snow and writes: "This is very dangerous, as dangerous as it is to drink rain water without minerals, because when you sweat, you lose the rest of the minerals in your body. He paid for it with his life, but it was a triumph. But von Kienlin didn't want me to see the loose sheets. Now he longed for an opportunity to tackle the big boys: the 14 eight-thousanders in Central Asia—in the Himalayan, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, and Pamir ranges. to come. Eisendle found a human femur a kilometer and a half below where Messner had last seen him, but it was very long—longer than Reinhold's femur, and Günther was several inches shorter than his brother—so Hubert said it couldn't be Günther's. In 1980, Messner and Demeter got back together, but it didn't work. He tried to get eight climbers to the top, but they all died, as did Merkl. Reinhold had gone ahead to pick the safest route across the avalanche chutes, while Günther staggered behind or sat resting until he got the O.K. Si sa solo che, prima di chiudere la sua sbalorditiva carriera di alpinista, intende conquistare tutte le cime che al mondo svettano oltre gli ottomila metri. He was going to find a job that would let him do more climbing when he got back. Agatha Christie couldn't have come up with a better ending. When we reach the foot of the mountain, the punished porter comes close to me and thanks me with folded hands and remains by my side and does not leave me any more. The charge was gravely serious: the worst thing a climber can do is to abandon his partner. He waited there for Günther, but Günther didn't come. We also found one of his boots. Reinhold, quella volta, riuscì a tornare al campo-base dopo una marcia solitaria durata due giorni e una notte. Sette anni fa Reinhold aveva fondato una scuola di alpinismo in Alto Adige, dove affluiscono patiti della montagna da ogni parte del mondo, e specialmente dalla Germania. Coming home without Günther was the most difficult moment in Reinhold's life. In the end we may all be sheepsheads, but no one so much as Reinhold.". I've just heard that the bone is Günther's, with a margin of error of 1 in 575,000." "If this is a forgery, Max, it's a very good one," I said, and he laughed. Von Kienlin said that they had agreed to keep what really happened secret, for Reinhold's sake. (It turned out to be the Gobi.) "Help him so that he can also have this chance," Joseph Messner urged. The controversy, it seemed, would never be resolved until Günther's body was found—which it finally was, in July 2005. "I gave it to the scientists in Innsbruck who are studying the Iceman," he told me in January 2004, "and they sent it to a laboratory in the United States along with DNA samples from Hubert and me. He said nothing about the controversy for years, but in 2000 he agreed to help his comrades, he says, after being approached by Baur and Winkler. So Messner sued von Kienlin and Saler and their publishers. I criticize the porter, and he stops. "Surely Uschi did not leave her family, the castle, and a wealthy German nobleman to live with a poor South Tyrolean climbing freak unless she was very unhappy.". "No one has seen this, not even the judge," he told me. There was nothing wrong with his mind that I noticed, except that he had a tendency to say whatever was on it, sometimes making life more difficult for himself. But shortly afterward, he starts again, so I beat him with a ski pole. Gnther è ancora lassù, sepolto sotto chissà quanti metri di neve e di ghiaccio. "Nature is the only ruler. And Messner was knicking off with one of their wives. He prepared a statement and sent it to all the important newspapers and magazines in Germany, Austria, and South Tyrol, saying that Messner's former comrades were breaking their silence about what had really happened: Messner left his brother on the summit or on the Merkl Gap, an icy notch above the Merkl Couloir, and had been planning the traverse all along. After that, Messner was spat on in the street. He became the local schoolteacher and married an intelligent, kindhearted local woman named Maria. They are in my daughter's Keller, 50 kilometers from here. It was so terrible." Each of us carried his own sleeping bag and tent, and porters carried the rest, until the highest camp, when we were on our own. Not so there. He was already planning a 1,000-mile trek across a desert whose name he wouldn't tell me. "In 2002 and '03, Max and I had an exchange in the papers," Messner told me. "I climbed every [mountain] wall in Villnöss by the most difficult route by the time I was 18," he told me. Two years later, Messner soloed Everest—at 29,035 feet the world's highest peak—again without an oxygen mask. Nobody helped us up there. The latter claims that Reinhold had left his weakened brother on the summit and sent him down the Rupal Face alone, so that he could cover himself in even more glory by descending the Diamir Face. As for the statements attributed to him by von Kienlin, Messner insisted, "I never said these things." "I never said it was a perfect diary," he told me. "Günther was more submissive than I was, so he got beaten more," Messner continued. E' difficile dire se la notizia abbia già raggiunto Reinhold: il celebre alpinista è infatti di nuovo nel Tibet, dove sta preparando un' ennesima spedizione, destinata a portarlo alla conquista degli ultimi "ottomila" che mancano al suo carnet. A metà parete il temporale che incombeva si è scatenato e la cordata è stata costretta a far marcia indietro. Reinhold and Günther had done easily a thousand climbs together, starting as little boys in their valley in South Tyrol, a German-speaking enclave at the border of Austria and Italy that has been under Italian rule since the First World War. Messner remembered the bone. The breakup with Demeter was like an emotional evisceration for Messner—the most traumatic event in his life after Günther's disappearance. A few days later, von Kienlin says, Baur contacted him and asked him to defend the group against Messner's claim of being bad comrades. Buhl ended up taking off for the summit alone, and Herrligkoffer sued him for disobeying orders and writing his own book. Von Kienlin argued that Messner had been shouting down not to Kuen and Scholz but to Günther, who was somewhere below him on the Rupal Face. After one of them said, "What a victory this is for South Tyrol!," Messner took the microphone and said, "I want to correct something: I didn't do it for South Tyrol, I didn't do it for Germany, I didn't do it for Austria. And we couldn't wait for the others to come, because they couldn't have gotten to us until the following morning, and another day and night at that altitude would have been fatal for Günther. They had eight sons and a daughter: Helmut, Reinhold, Erich, Günther, Waltraud, Siegfried, Hubert, Hansjörg, and Werner. What impressed me was not only that he had had all these incredible adventures, but that between expeditions he had written 40 books about them—including one arguing that the Abominable Snowman of Himalayan lore is actually a rare species of long-haired Tibetan bear. In 2001, a new biography of Herrligkoffer was presented at the club's museum in Munich, and Messner, who had written the foreword, was asked to say a few words. I shit on flags." A solo-climbing pioneer, Buhl, with the Italian Walter Bonatti, was Messner's main role model. "I am not an anarchist, but I am anarchistical," he told me. "The others"—the second summit team, who heard Messner shouting for help as they came up the Merkl Couloir—were Felix Kuen, an Austrian soldier, and climber Peter Scholz. Reinhold quickly demonstrated that he was the strongest climber, and on June 27, after days of being snowbound by a blizzard, the death of one of the porters, and other setbacks, the expedition had one last chance to make the summit: it all came down to Messner making a solo dash up the last 3,000 feet from Camp Five. Messner planned to take them to the Rupal Face and then to the Diamir Face, where he would show them where Günther died and where his body was found. But Messner disagrees: "Günther and I always shared the work. to leave others if it is a question of your own survival. Up the Schnalstal Valley is the Similaun Glacier, where the 5,300-year-old Iceman was found in 1991. ", "Where are these loose sheets?," I pressed, and von Kienlin said, "They aren't here. ", But if Messner hoped that the discovery would rid him of von Kienlin, he was mistaken. Eccellente rocciatore, aveva preferito non avventurarsi troppo oltre i confini delle due Dolomiti. I did it for myself." He had decided in his mid-teens that he was going to become the greatest mountain climber ever, and from then on was a man obsessed, pushing himself to the limit, then pushing the limit out some more, "learning the world through my fear," as he puts it in one of his many books. His career was on the line in 1970, so he had little patience for the insubordination that the Messner brothers soon manifested. Herrligkoffer, who always made the climbers sign the rights to their stories over to him in his expedition contracts, would sue Messner for the very same reasons in 1970. When Günther asked for a two-month leave of absence to go on the expedition, the bank wouldn't give it to him, so he gave his notice. Non si sa cosa abbia indotto Siegfried a violare questa legge non scritta ma ugualmente importante. Chi spera di incontrarvi Reinhold, rimane però quasi sempre deluso. Siegfried era precipitato l' altro ieri pomeriggio per una ventina di metri lungo la torre Stabeler, la cuspide centrale delle tre che formano il gruppo di Vajolet, nelle Dolomiti altoatesine. "But there was no plan to do the traverse," Messner assured me. As Messner writes in The White Loneliness, his second book about Nanga Parbat, published in 2003, "We had a choice between waiting for death and going out to meet it.". Starting in 1963, the best German climbers had pitted themselves against it. It is the logical consequence if someone thinks. With more than 600,000 members, the German Alpine Club is the largest organization of its kind in the world and a bastion of conservatism and "good German values." Perhaps their disagreement was not so surprising: we are all the heroes of our own novels, after all. Yet he could produce neither the hardbound diary nor the loose sheets for me to look at. It took time and concentration and a good memory to put the puzzle together.". He received death threats and letters containing feces. "I said, 'Someday, maybe not in my lifetime, my brother will be found on the Diamir Face.' He was also alone. La scuola è infatti stata in pratica affidata a Siegfried, che è anche presidente delle guide alpine dell' Alto Adige. Vanity Fair may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. In the fall of 1971, Messner took Demeter to Nanga Parbat, and they went to the Diamir side to see if they could find any trace of Günther. 3 nach ihrem Tod am 4. We were having a good time with each other. But there was no sign of his brother. Nati in Val di Funes, sotto la bianca e paurosa parete delle Odle, i Messner hanno cominciato ad arrampicarsi prima ancora di imparare a camminare. E hanno continuato a farlo, con una perseveranza e un' audacia che è apparsa e appare ai più come una sfida insensata. "Where is Günther?" Not only that, but Messner wouldn't even have been on the Merkl Gap if he'd been descending alone; he would have bivouacked farther down the Diamir Face. He gave me the latest edition of his book, from which contested passages had been removed by court order. In the afternoon comes the sirdar, the head of the porters, and thanks me again. "Reinhold never made a move until he had studied the weather conditions," says Doug Scott, one of the top Himalayan climbers of Messner's era, "and when everything was right, he went for it and pulled it off because of his phenomenal fitness.". This fit in with his theory that the brothers had separated the night before—with Günther heading back down the Rupal Face and Messner proceeding to the Merkl Gap en route to the Diamir Face. Young Reinhold began to think that blind obedience, the Führer principle, was the tragic flaw of German culture—a conviction that was reinforced when he learned about the Holocaust.

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